Ok, I laid my scenic express ballast. I smoothed out the ballast shoulder and it looked great. I used 70% rubbing alcohol to cut the surface tension like in Joe's video. It displaced a small amount of ballast. I followed with the 1-3 mix of white glue to water in the glue bottle. I used that and I get wash outs and ballast grains floating away. I thought maybe it's my application amount so I use less and that seemed to help some. I also noticed if I applied it directly to the shoulder, it would basically disappear and wash away.
Now for the clean up and reshaping of the shoulder.
What is the best way to go about patching and getting the ballast back to looking good again? Can I lay new ballast and use the same methods as before? Will it disrupt the ballast I already laid?
I'll have to find a way to clean up the ballast washouts.
Nate Modeling the Northern Kansas Division of the Missouri Pacific
Joined: Wed Dec 08 2004, 09:01PM Location: Portland, OR Posts: 2112
Washouts are always a problem.
First, while everything is soaked with alcohol and glue, sprinkle a little dry ballast into the washout area. It will soak up some glue from the nearby ballast.
Once that's dry, come back and repair the washout areas with a second application. I have a 2:1 glue mix I use for repairs in a bottle with an eye dropper. This glue mix also has a couple drops of dish detergent added to it to help it flow better.
Using the eye dropper allows me to be very precise and very gentle with the application of the glue. I also like to use this glue bottle to apply glue to ballast around turnout points since it's very precise. Joe Fugate http://siskiyou-railfan.net - 200,000 hits and counting!
I use a syringe, holding and sliding the needle against the rail while I let the diluted glue flowing on the alcoohol soaked ballast. It's great because the washouts are very contained. Denny Saronno, VA - Italy http://www.sp-coastline.com