Joined: Tue Jan 24 2006, 01:32PM Location: Colorado Posts: 2
Hey everyone, I'm a new guy on this forum, and am looking for some info. I'm modeling an SP caboose, C-40-4r #4119 as it would have looked in the mid 80's. My big question is...the red marker lights are mounted above the end doors...did they remain "lit steady", or flash, and if so at a certian rate/freq?
I'll be using a single function decoder to run these lights. This will require/allow the operator to call up the caboose with the trottle to set the marker direction. It will also allow for added transponding down the road. Rick Bacon 3 Windsor, CO
Joined: Tue Jan 24 2006, 01:32PM Location: Colorado Posts: 2
Well, if anyone is interested, my research has lead me to believe that these marker lights were steady burners...not blinkers. The "famous Harry Wong" remembers seeing them steady, and most of the railroaders I talked with seem to thing blinking is something FREDs/EOTs brought with them as far as end of train marking goes.
On a side note about modeling C-40-4 cabeese from the Athearn model; the roof overhangs turn out to be to short to match the frame/steps(by .115 inch per end!). I don't know weather the roof is wrong or the floor, but I'm adding a sliver of roof from a second shell to the roof ends to get the end railings to stand up vertical, and not lean in!
Joined: Wed Dec 21 2005, 11:58AM Location: NorCal Posts: 59
Rick,
I totally agree with the "steady as she goes" constant light. While circuits for blinking markers were avaiable in the hobby during the 80's, this was always for someone else--not the SP. OUR "excitement" with lights is on the head end--the gyralite. I was track-side along the SP a lot during the late 70's and 80's and took note for my own modellig of the shift from "frog eyes" to the single lense. Solid on. As you found by interviewing railroaders, it was the FRED that introduced the "flashing rear end detector." Fortunately for many of us, Oregon's caboose law kept cabooses rolling until 1990-91.
I used LED's to light my SP cabooses..the prototype was either mounted to the rear of the caboose above the back door or on top of the roof ...the roof mounts worked best...I took a red LED and soldered a piece of wire to one of the LED leads because the originals had a three legged stantion so the extra leg would be seen as prototype...I then mounted it to the roof added some wheel pickups, a 250 microfarad capacitor to cut out any light flicker from dirty wheels and a resistor..i then painted the LED tuscan red on the backside and painted a small silver ring for a lens..it worked out great...chuck
Joined: Wed Oct 12 2005, 06:27AM Location: Belgium Posts: 10
A capacitor to avoid flickering is the best way to go, but I've always heard that capacitors and DCC don't go together very well. How did you get around this?
here are some photo's of it..once it's lit you can't really tell it's an LED..since i'm still a DC guy i have no problems with capacitors...that's why i'm scared to put in DCC..i have a lot of electronic stuff on my layout and all the horror stories about what DCC will do to them keeps me a DC guy...chuck
here are some photo's of it..once it's lit you can't really tell it's an LED..since i'm still a DC guy i have no problems with capacitors...that's why i'm scared to put in DCC..i have a lot of electronic stuff on my layout and all the horror stories about what DCC will do to them keeps me a DC guy...chuck
just add a cheap function-only decoder and use one of its DC outputs. there should be no problem with capacitors.
here are some photo's of it..once it's lit you can't really tell it's an LED..since i'm still a DC guy i have no problems with capacitors...that's why i'm scared to put in DCC..i have a lot of electronic stuff on my layout and all the horror stories about what DCC will do to them keeps me a DC guy...chuck
I'd like to make a commentary about this post. Since i finally put in a DCC system, all I had to do is cut the capacitor from the circuit. The LED doesn't flicker much in doing so and here's the best part. Since the power to the rails with a DCC system is AC, the LED works in both directions of travel unlike polarity sensative DC in which I had to ensure the caboose was heading in the proper direction so the LED would pick up the right polarity to light. The wave of the AC current acts like reverse polarity in the half wave and the caboose's LED stays lit no matter which direction the train is running. !lol