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Joe Fugate's Siskiyou Line :: Forums :: Joe Fugate's Siskiyou Line :: Locos and rolling stock
 
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Siskiyou Line rolling stock standards
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joef
Wed Dec 08 2004, 11:21PM


Registered Member #3
Joined: Wed Dec 08 2004, 09:01PM
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 2112
Okay Jeff, here you go, a place to discuss rolling stock standards on the HO Siskiyou Line.

Joe Fugate
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Guest
Thu Dec 09 2004, 12:19AM
Guest
Joe,
I've seen that the couplers on the Siskiyou Line appear to all be Kadee #5's. Do you plan on introducing the scale sized #58's or the #118 for the tank cars?

As for weight, I think the NMRA standard is 4oz + 1oz/inch in length for rolling stock - is that your goal as well? What do you use for additional weight when you need to add it?

Wheelsets - You've mentioned that some of the cars don't have metal wheelsets, although it did sound like that was the definite goal. Do you have a favorite manufacturer, and do you just replace the wheelsets or the entire truck as well?
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joef
Thu Dec 09 2004, 12:31AM


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Joined: Wed Dec 08 2004, 09:01PM
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 2112
Jeff:

I use Kadee #5s as my standard coupler, or the 40 series (metal shanks) if I have special mounting issue.

I don't like to mix coupler types, like scale #58 couplers, and so on because thats just asking for coupling issues if you ask me.

As to weight, I use a simpler formula, 1 oz per 10 scale feet, which ends up making the car slightly heavier than the NMRA standard, but close enough, I think.

I prefer to replace the wheelsets with metal wheels. I had been using Kadee wheelsets, but recently have discovered proto2000 metal wheelsets for a very good price and great rolling characteristics, and am standardizing on them.

Joe Fugate
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JeffShultz
Thu Dec 09 2004, 12:33AM

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Joined: Wed Dec 08 2004, 09:30PM
Location: Stayton, OR
Posts: 582
Hmmm, how did I end up as "Jeff Schultz - Guest" in that last post of mine.

Jeff Shultz
Willamette & Pacific - Oregon Electric Branch
W&P RR Photo Gallery
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joef
Thu Dec 09 2004, 01:51AM


Registered Member #3
Joined: Wed Dec 08 2004, 09:01PM
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 2112
Hmmm, how did I end up as "Jeff Schultz - Guest" in that last post of mine.


I'm still tuning this forum and this topic allowed guests to post.

So you were not logged in, but I surmised it was you and changed the name to your name. But I can't change the guest part easily, so I just left it.

At any rate, I turned off guest posting on all the topics but the Tech support topic.

Joe Fugate
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JeffShultz
Thu Dec 09 2004, 08:14AM

Registered Member #6
Joined: Wed Dec 08 2004, 09:30PM
Location: Stayton, OR
Posts: 582
Ah - weird, I thought I was logged in then. Fortunately I know I am now.

So you are using Kadee & P2k wheelsets in the original trucks on the cars? Are you using 33" wheels exclusively, or do you also use 36" on some of the "heavier" cars?

Also, do you use "The Tool" to ream out the trucks of those you are adding the metal wheelsets to?

Do you have a favorite way of adding weight to bring a car up to standards?

Jeff Shultz
Willamette & Pacific - Oregon Electric Branch
W&P RR Photo Gallery
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joef
Thu Dec 09 2004, 10:21AM


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Joined: Wed Dec 08 2004, 09:01PM
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 2112
Jeff:

I use both 33" and 36" wheelsets, and use the 36" wheelsets on the larger cars. I don't have the wheelset reaming tool, but I've asked Santa for it and we'll see if he manages to include it in his deliveries to the Fugate household.

As to weight, I prefer to use pennies to weight my cars. I used to use lead weights, like the ones from A-Line, but pennies are far more economical. After about 6 months of collecting pennies, I have a lifetime supply of car weight supplement, I think!

There are about 10 pennies to an ounce, and I stick them to the inside of enclosed cars using double-stick foam tape. The process goes fast using the tape, and the pennies stay put.

I test weigh the assembled car on a postage scale, and add pennies to the scale to bring the car up to weight. Then I just pop the body off the car and tape down the pennies with the double-stick tape to the car floor.

Since I can easily post photos on here :idea:, I'll have to take some photos when we do our work session next month to show how this is done! :

Joe Fugate
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Paul Grayless
Thu Dec 09 2004, 01:43PM
Registered Member #31
Joined: Thu Dec 09 2004, 01:20PM
Location: Hacienda Heights, CA
Posts: 13
Joe & Jeff,

Interesting that Joe has choosen to only use the metal shank couplers. My local club came to the same conclusion several years ago due to the plastic shanks deflecting up/down when pulling a heavy train on our grades. This lead to train seperations. Therefore the Glendale Model Railroad Club standardized on the metal shanks. For now at least the #58's are not being used by too many of our members, and they've not been approved for or car card operations fleet for the issue of compatibility with the #5's that are typically used on all other cars in the fleet.

As for car weight, Pennies can be the way to go due to their cost. Car weight does matter, and mixing cars that are significantly below their standard weight will cause derailments with long trains on curves. These cars also pop off the track when pushers are used as well.

I've been looking at which wheelsets to use for my own layout, and a couple of friends have been using the P2K ones as well for the cost.

While I've had 'The Tool' for a while now, I've not yet used it. My train lengths are short enough for now that the extra drag hasn't been an issue yet. I also keeps the cars from rolling away on my less that level spurs.

Paul Grayless
ATSF Plainview & Floydada Districts
Circa 1960, Texas Panhandle
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gerrymmr
Thu Dec 09 2004, 06:35PM

Registered Member #13
Joined: Wed Dec 08 2004, 11:38PM
Location: Narara, (near Sydney), Australia
Posts: 36
Guys,

Some interesting comments about wheels Couplers, weights and all that jazz.
95% of my rooling stock has P2K wheels sets. the couplers are a 50/50 mix of #5 and #58 and work greta together - my trains are only 20 cars long.

AS to weights - just for the record the NMRA does NOT have a standard for car weight - I use a formula for my weights which works well for me, 1oz per inch of car. I use large machine nuts, one over each truck.

Regards

Gerry

Great Northern - Downunder
http://users.bigpond.net.au/gerrymmr
AP + Contest Manager
NMRA - Australasian Region
http://www.nmra.org.au
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CVSNE-1
Fri Dec 17 2004, 04:32PM
Registered Member #53
Joined: Fri Dec 17 2004, 04:03PM
Posts: 3
Gosh, guys, I've standardized on InterMountain wheelsets for the SNE

Seriously, the P2K sets are fine, and "The Tool" does make a difference. I use it on every truck on the railroad.

I also had an issue with standard width wheelsets hitting the steps on my Walthers cabooses -- so I switched them to .088" wheels -- and was prepared for all kinds of tracking problems. so far, none. They run and work just fine through all my track, including the Peco turnouts in the staging yards.

In fact, I threw some .088" wheelsets on some random cars, now I can't remember which ones have them and which don't.

Marty

Marty McGuirk
President,
Southern New England Ry.
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