During the winter we have put down som track in our yard. The wiring is temporary as we wanted to run trains as soon as possible. Now it is time to do the more permanent wiring. I have tested the short-proofing-system using bulbs similar to the 1156-bulbs and find that it works. But how many bulbs/track-blocks do I need in my yard? In our blog there is a picture of the schematic plan of the yard. You may want to enlarge it in your browser.
I am a bit unsecure about some of the blocks and hope you can help me.
1. Will I need an isolation gap at (the red letter) “a”? 1.1. Trains from the Main East to the yard-tracks that make a short, will not stop a train using the Siding East when switching the industries H and G. 1.2. On the other hand – a short in the yard-tracks 1 and 2 will then also short the Siding East making this track impossible to use. 1.3. So – is it better to also have a gap at “a” creating a very short block, but also making a better short protection for the different routes through the crossover there?
2. Should I put in isolation gaps at “c”, “d” and “e” creating a new block with the industries, freighhouse, ice house etc? There will normally not be more than one train switching here, or one train running to and from the Litchfield Branch staging, but without the gaps a short in those industry tracks makes it impossible to run on the branch.
3. Is it an overkill to let the express-track and industry A track be an own track-block?
The short answer is: more blocks are better than fewer blocks, generally speaking, when you have a location with lots of turnouts like you show.
Your other option is to use live frogs and put a bulb on each live frog and then don't worry about blocks in an area with such complex track. But now you'll need contacts on all your turnouts.
If you want a good short-resistant layout, it's always something ... sheesh. Joe Fugate http://siskiyou-railfan.net - 200,000 hits and counting!
Joe, thanks for the answer. I'll prefer dead frogs whenever possible as I for most of the turnouts use simple "turnout-motors" like the popular RS2 or RS3 - Simple feathers made from paperclip or piano-wire. I prefer DCC-friendly turnouts like Atlas or rebuilt Shinohara.
My conclusion so far is to go for more blocks, even if this complicates wiring a bit.